Buyers' Guide

Jaguar E-type

Overview

The Jaguar E-type is probably the most desirable classic car, period. Everybody knows what it looks like, and most people want one. Even Enzo Ferrari has been quoted as saying that it was the most beautiful car in the world. Its notoriety also means that it is now impossible to expect an honest bargain, and utmost care should be taken to avoid unscrupulous vendors. American “barn find” cars are not necessarily in good condition, and botched, unprofessional restorations mean that they will bite their naive owners after a few years, painfully. Paradoxically, it is very easy to own or upgrade a Jaguar E-type nowadays, as parts are widely available, but very difficult to purchase a good one. You must buy one from a trusted specialist, or seek the advice of one when buying privately. Otherwise it could turn into an expensive disaster.

Its launch in 1961 is the stuff of legend, with the Geneva show car being driven non-stop from England so that it would get to the Jaguar stand on time. At the beginning, demand outstripped supply, and William Lyons, the boss of Jaguar, was very happy. The original Series 1 cars were followed by modified Series 2 and Series 3 cars, and the car stayed in production until 1975, when it was replaced by the XJ-S, also designed by Malcolm Sayer. The later, bulkier Series 3 cars are less liked, but good to drive. Unless you plan on just waiting for values to rise, and you wish to use your E-type as its makers intended, please look for the best car you can afford, regardless of the series. Upgrades are quite popular, except on the most valuable cars in concours condition; these modifications include uprated brakes, uprated engines, 5-speed gearboxes, fuel injection etc.

Jaguar only homologated the Series 1 to race, therefore with today’s proliferation of E-types in historic racing, this has distorted the market, making S1 cars even more valuable. Roadsters used to be more pricey, but the coupe values have recently caught up. The widespread obsession with matching numbers means that some numbers may have been restamped on some cars by unscrupulous traders! Beware of that. Note that competition cars, which in period were treated as mere tools, cannot have matching numbers: engines were replaced as needed and nobody cared. If a car has a genuine racing history, it can’t have matching numbers and vice versa.

Engine

Most available E-types are powered by Jaguar’s long-lived 6-cylinder inline engine, with a capacity of either 3.8 and 4.2 liters, and some with the V-12. The sixes are basically tough, if they are properly maintained and rebuilt every 150,000 miles or sooner. Check the underside of the oil filler cap; if it’s covered in a whitish sludge, it means that the head gasket has blown due to the engine having overheated (the reasons for overheating may be multiple, blocked water passages, lack of maintenance, faulty cooling fan, coolant leaks).

If the vendor has warmed up the engine before you view the car, be suspicious because a cold start can help you detect rattles and knocks. Let the engine run and see if the fan operates as it should once the engine is hot. Should the engine rattle when cold and produce smoke, it needs to be rebuilt. All parts and complete engines are available, and it is now possible to build a motor which is much better than what Jaguar put under the hood when the car was new! Ports and combustion chambers in new heads really align with the cylinders, making new-build engines more powerful and more reliable; but, of course, in terms of value, originality counts. Rough running is often down to carburetors needing an overhaul.

The V-12 engine in the S3 is very strong, lasting up to 200,000 miles between overhauls, but only with careful maintenance. It needs to be gently warmed up before driving, so that oil can lubricate all the critical parts. If the correct proportions of antifreeze are not maintained, the engine can expire. You may find that previous owners skimped on maintenance, using plain water as coolant, and never touching the spark plugs at the back of the engine (or the rear inboard brakes…).

The rubber coolant hoses, of which there are many in both types of engine, must be replaced periodically, and not when they have already perished. The same applies to the flexible fuel lines. Some of them are hard to reach, but if you bow to laziness, a ruptured fuel line may lead to your investment going up in flames, literally.

There is nothing that cannot be repaired or improved on any of the E-type engines.

Gearbox

Transmissions are strong, but the legendary Moss unit is known for its unpleasant shifting quality and for its level of noise. A rebuild can be expensive, however. The differential is quite expensive to overhaul, as special tools are required to do the job. There are several final drive ratios available, make sure your car has the correct one (American axle ratios are different).

The automatic 3-speed Borg-Warner box causes no serious problems, and when it begins slipping, a rebuild is not expensive and fairly straightforward. In fact all the transmissions fitted to the E-type in production are easy to repair and all parts are available.

Suspension and brakes

The suspension is one of the best-designed bits of the car! The most crucial part (others need replacement and lubrication, but this one can kill you when it breaks) is a little coupling which connects to the upper wishbone/driveshaft. Almost nobody ever checks it or replaces it on time, and it will not warn the driver of the impending doom. When it fails, the wheel folds under the car with catastrophic consequences. At CKL Developments at least 10 instances of serious crashes are known, therefore a modified part is installed, made of high-tensile steel.

When you buy a car like this, you never know when a particular component has been replaced, perhaps it is overtightened and subject to metal fatigue. Therefore this little component, and the driveshafts, should be replaced like parts on an aircraft, after a certain number of hours in use. You can’t see this part, and you don’t know it’s worn until it fails completely!

The steering should feel taut and precise, if it isn’t, the two joints in the steering column may be the culprits (available at reasonable prices) or, alternatively, worn suspension bushes. Check all joints, splines, and couplings for the sake of safety.

The handbrake mechanism has a tendency to seize, but is not difficult to loosen up and lubricate properly. Differential oil may leak on the rear inboard disc brakes, which may cause trouble.

Bodywork

An E-type will happily rust all over. A European or US car must have had some considerable repair work done at some point, and it is important to know whether the work has been done well, and if the right welding process was used, plus the correct original repair techniques. No car can now be completely original, so if someone claims that his is, that is a lie. California-sourced cars may be in better condition, but not always. The front tubular subframe may be damaged by jacking the car up the wrong way, and the tubes can have fatigue cracks around the engine mounting points.

Interior

At this age, interior trim may be worn and/or damaged. Most parts are available, although the quality of some of them leaves a lot to be desired. For high-value cars, there is no substitute for originality, and if you try hard, you can usually find parts somewhere.

The Story

1961: Jaguar E-type launched at the Geneva motor show
1962: Deeper footwells in the floor in front; that is why earlier units are known as flat-floor cars
1964: Engine grows to 4.2 liters, new gearbox fitted
1966: 2+2 E-type available, longer wheelbase and higher roof
1967: Series 1 1/2 model in production, with headlight fairings gone
1968: Series 2 on sale
1971: V12 Series 3 replaces the inline-6-engined S2
1975: production ends

The DRIVERSHALL Verdict

There are no bargains among E-types. Buy the best car you can find, with a fully documented history, and have it checked by a specialist. Otherwise find a project car whose condition is obvious, and budget for a full restoration. Values are high, and you need to be careful in order to invest well.

Many thanks to Rupert Manwaring and Chris Keith-Lucas at CKL Developments (ckl.co.uk) for their help with this feature.

Buyers' Guide

Porsche 911 Targa (F-model)/912

911 Targa (1966-1973)

Many manufacturers were worried, and with good reason, that the American NHTSA would ban the sale of true soft-top convertibles with no rollover protection in the US market; the market where most of the car companies were raking in the biggest profits on this type of vehicle. Thus the British Triumph brand created the Stag with its integrated rollover hoop, and Porsche, for whom US sales meant the difference between survival and a quick demise, decided to drop the traditional convertible altogether, and to build a new bodystyle, which they christened the Targa (after the Targa Florio race, won multiple times by Porsche).

The car had a rollover hoop of 20 centimeters in width and, initially, a foldable soft plastic rear window, later replaced by a glass window. At present it is one of the most collectible Porsche cars ever made, in high demand and thus also a source of income for unscrupulous fraudsters. That’s why it is prudent to peruse our DRIVERSHALL Buyers’ Guide before you make a purchase decision. The car drives virtually the same as the Coupe version of the early 911, and retains most of its practicality.

912 (1965-1969, 1976)

In 1965 Porsche was still producing the 356 and a large gap appeared in its lineup between the ageing 4-cylinder car and the 6-cylinder 911, therefore it was decided to create, very quickly, a lower-powered, lighter version of the 911. It was equipped with the 1.6 liter engine from the 1600 SC, and cost as much as the corresponding 356 model. It was named the 912. In 1968 the model received an upgrade, with longer semi-trailing arms resulting in a 57 mm longer wheelbase, somewhat taming the car’s oversteer tendency. In 1969 the Porsche 912 was replaced by the 914. The 912 was produced in the same three body types as the normal 911, that is as a coupe (28 201 units), as a Targa with a glass rear window (2544 cars) and, the most rare of them all, the Soft-Window Targa, with only 967 units built.

The car sounded more like a VW Beetle, and was not a resounding success in period (except in the US), but pundits believed that on tight road courses it actually handled better than the contemporary 911 due to a different weight balance. This made it quite popular in professional motorsport, where, like the more powerful 911, it was extensively rallied (a factory rally kit was available, with anti-roll bars, special brake pads and a footrest to the left of the clutch pedal. Most people today, even 911 aficionados, are unaware of this, but in 1967 the Polish privateer driver Sobieslaw Zasada won the European Rally Championship for production touring cars in a Porsche 912, gathering more points throughout the season than the factory 911S of Vic Elford and David Stone, which had won the Monte Carlo rally! The 912 was strong, reliable and, in the right hands, fast.

In 1976 a partial and temporary resurrection happened, as the 912E was again briefly produced (2099 units) for the US market, using the engine of the 914 (or the VW411, with 90 hp and L-Jetronic injection) in a G-series body. It is the expert’s choice as a great driver’s car, but remains difficult to source.

For decades the 912 was neglected by collectors who despised its “cheap” engine sound, and still a few years ago it was possible to find one in Germany, in decent shape, for around 20,000 euros. That is no longer the case, as the car, especially the rare Targa iterations, has become very popular. It is much less intimidating to drive than the six-cylinder 911, with its more favorable front-rear weight balance, if you don’t mind the lack of outright speed.

Engine

Porsche 911 Targa

The targa bodystyle was available with all the same engines as the COupe version of the 911 in the same period, therefore the same purchase rules apply. From the start of production, the earliest 911 was equipped with a 2-liter engine developing 130 hp. In 1965 a version of the engine appeared, replacing the maintenance-intensive Solex carburetors with Webers. In 1968 the 911 S appeared with 160 hp, the 911 T with 110 hp became the entry model, and the base car was now called the 911 L. The engine block and the gearbox casing were then made of a magnesium alloy.

In 1969, when Bosch intake tract injection was introduced, the engines gained an extra 10 hp: the 911 E was the base model, and the S was the most powerful one, with the T retaining carburetors until the end of its production.

In 1972 the engine capacity grew to 2.2 liters, and later to 2.4 liters, with the final 911 S developing 190 hp. The most powerful factory engine was the 1973 Carrera RS with light alloy cylinders and 210 hp.

The main source of problems with the early 911 engines is the wear and failure of camshaft drive chains and chain tensioners. Cars with low mileage and irregular servicing are especially prone. Another problem area are the engine head bolts securing the cylinders to the engine block: these can fail catastrophically due to age-related corrosion, and this failure can have nothing to do with the mileage.

It is very expensive to replace a corroded exhaust heat exchanger: this has to be checked by a specialist in early 911s. As the Solex carbs used initially required frequent adjustment, these were often replaced in period with Webers or Zeniths, but original carburetors have a higher collector value. Magnesium engine blocks and gearboxes tend to leak oil. Cars sourced from the US often have the K-Jetronic Bosch fuel injection and are more expensive to fix, even though they seem cheaper to repair at first glance.

Porsche 912

The 4-cylinder engine is normally quite durable, but there are a few caveats. It DOES NOT like long runs at a constant high speed, like on the autobahn! Blue exhaust smoke means worn out valve stems and valve guides. Worn piston rings lead to increased oil consumption, which should not exceed 1.5 liters per 1000 km. US-sourced cars may look promising, but their engines are usually terribly neglected in terms of oil changes and valve clearance adjustment.

But the main problem is a lack of engine originality, as many 912s have had their engines replaced with Type 3 Volkswagen Transporter motors, or even VW Beetle engines with twin carburetors. This needs to be verified thoroughly before purchase! 

Gearbox

Porsche 911 Targa

Like most early Porsche 911s, the Targas are equipped with a 4-speed manual gearbox. Much fewer have a 5-speed or the Sportomatic semiautomatic transmission (the latter offered from 1967). The standard gearbox is noisy and requires a firm hand, but is quite durable. As of 1971 the gearbox was replaced with a 915-series unit, with a better shifting action.

Porsche 912

Gearboxes are generally strong, but suffer from damaged synchros and gearshift linkages.

Bodywork

The  is just as rust-prone as all the other early 911 variants, and will rust practically everywhere.

Most of these cars rust prodigiously around the headlights, front wheelarches and all the way to the base of the B-pillar. Suspension mounting points also corrode, as do the lower parts of the A-pillars. Another critical area is the special tube to which the rear suspension is attached.

Look for deformations in the inner body structure which can indicate hidden accident repairs! Leaking rubber seals of the rear and side windows mean water ingress into the hat shelf area, which in turn causes corrosionin the rearmost parts of the chassis longerons and the engine bay. 

If a car you wish to buy seems to have been restored/repaired/welded, you unconditionally need the help of a seasoned specialist. In the case of cars imported from the USA, often claimed to come from so-called “dry states”, the body repairs performed there are often of horrible quality, just cleverly disguised.

The main difference in this regard between the coupe and the Targa is the fact that corrosion at the base of the rollover hoop can cause distortion to the whole body, as the hoop contributes greatly to the car’s torsional stiffness. 

In case of the 912, the majority of the cars in the market come from the USA, where body repairs of horrible quality are the rule rather than the exception. Rust damage to jacking points is very frequent, and unoriginal parts are often used (Porsche originals are expensive). Many 912 Soft Window Targa cars have been converted to the glass rear window. A retrograde conversion is technically possible, but not cheap.

Chassis

The suspension of the early 911 was composed of longitudinal torsion bars and wishbones in the front, and torsion bars plus semi-trailing arms in the rear, and is no different in the Targaand the 912 (except for narrower tires in the latter). The rear arms were lengthened in 1971, resulting in a lengthening of the car’s wheelbase. The car had four disc brakes, later ventilated. At the beginning it has a single-circuit braking system, replaced by a double-ccircuit system in 1968.

It is crucial that the whole suspension system be in perfect shape, correctly maintained and adjusted, with parts replaced on time. The car is quite difficult to drive as it is, and with worn-out suspension it can become impossible to handle for an inexperienced driver. Low mileage is no guarantee of chassis condition. 

Look out for rotten shock absorber turrets and rusty suspension mounting points, as they will negate the effect of all other work performed on the suspension.

Interior

The rules for the Targa and the 912 are the same as for any other early 911-based Porsche. The interior needs to be as authentic as possible with no visible damage. Depending on where the car spent most of its life, look for water ingress traces and plastic trim cracked from excessive exposure to sunlight. Replacement parts are available, mostly from Porsche Classic, but are very expensive. Buy the best car you can find. Watch out for worn-out interiors on US-sourced cars, especially 912s.

The Story

1965: Porsche 912 launched
1966: Porsche 911 Targa introduced
1967: European Rally Championship won by a Porsche 912
1968: wheelbase increased, double-circuit brakes introduced
1969: Porsche 912 production ends
1973: Porsche 911 Targa production ends
1976: Second-generation Porsche 912E produced for US only

Specifications

Porsche 911 Targa
Power 130 hp 
Top speed 205 km/h 
0-100 km/h 9.1 s

Porsche 912
Power 90 hp 
Top speed 183 km/h 
0-100 km/h 13.5 s

The DRIVERSHALL Verdict

The 911 Targa is one of the most desirable classic Porsches, and a delight to drive (if the driver stays within his limits). Because it is so popular and so expensive, many cars are disguised disasters. If a car seems to good to be true, it is. A good-looking car can hide a completely rotten body. Fake restorations often disguise a lack of honest work. A 911 Targa with well-disguised corrosion and component wear will be a veritable money pit, especially as the bodyshell can crack due to the reduced torsional stiffness, especially if the base of the B-pillar is rusty. In the case of the 912, many cars are badly repaired units from the United States, and their recent popularity means that a hasty purchase, without the help of an expert, is a very bad idea indeed. If you bag a good one, it is often more fun than a 911!

Buyers' Guide

Porsche 911 (F-model)

Overview

By the late 1950’s the Porsche 356, still very much VW Beetle-based, was becoming less and less competitive. The Porsche brand needed a new car, and a team led by Ferdinand’s son, Ferry, started work on it.

A wishlist written down by Ferry Porsche on squared notepaper included the following features: “2-seater with 2 comfortable jump seats. Rear view mirror integrated in the fenders. Easier entry”. At the same time, the Sales Department demanded the following: “Retain previous Porsche line. Not a fundamentally new car. Sporty character”. The development direction was therefore clear: evolution, not revolution (it remains the same today!). The same also applied to the technology. The drive principle – including a flat, air-cooled “boxer” engine at the rear – would remain intact, but the chassis would be modestly re-engineered.

A number of prototypes were built, including the true 4-seater prototype 754T7, penned largely by Ferry’s son, Ferdinand Alexander Porsche. The board decided, however, to shorten the wheelbase and to change the shape of the rear of the body, doing away with the distinctive notchback, and creating the iconic 911 flowing form as we know it. Descendants of Erwin Komenda, namely his daughter, have claimed in a lawsuit directed at VW Group, that he was, in fact, the true author of the 911 body, and that he had never been fully compensated for his groundbreaking work.

The benchmark for the new Porsche would be the 356 with the so-called “Dame” motor of 1.6 liter capacity, the benchmark in terms of smoothness and vibrations. As the 4-cylinder Fuhrmann unit had reached the limit of its development, a new 2-liter 6-cylinder engine was developed.

The Porsche 901 in prototype form was shown at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 1963, but when it was displayed in Paris the following year, Peugeot vetoed the model designation: it had filed for trademark protection on all numeric car model names with a “0” in the middle. After 82 units had been produced (rare and much coveted now), the model designation was changed to the familiar “911”.

The car was criticized in period for its wayward handling, and to some extent this was justified. Very rudimentary suspension solutions plus period tires made the car very oversteery. Today’s tires tame the handling somewhat, and most owners tend to drive their cars very gently anyway. In truth, I believe the early 911 is not very pleasant to drive for the modern driver, as it’s quite physical and requires attention at all times. Once a slide begins, it’s difficult to catch due to the slow, unassisted steering. Most owners buy these cars out of nostalgia or due to their rising values, not as a means of delivering great driving pleasure.

This DRIVERSHALL Buying Guide covers all early 911s except the Targa and the 912, which will be covered by a separate installment.

Engine

At the start, the 901 was equipped with a 2-liter engine developing 130 hp. In 1965 a version of the engine appeared, replacing the maintenance-intensive Solex carburetors with Webers. In 1968 the 911 S appeared with 160 hp, the 911 T with 110 hp became the entry model, and the base car was now called the 911 L. The engine block and the gearbox casing were then made of a magnesium alloy.

In 1969, when Bosch intake track injection was introduced, the engines gained an extra 10 hp: the 911 E was the base model, and the S was the most powerful one, with the T retaining carburetors until the end of its production.

In 1972 the engine capacity grew to 2.2 liters, and later to 2.4 liters, with the final 911 S developing 190 hp. The most powerful factory engine was the 1973 Carrera RS with light alloy cylinders and 210 hp.

The main source of problems with the early 911 engines is the wear and failure of camshaft drive chains and chain tensioners. Cars with low mileage and irregular servicing are especially prone. Another problem area are the engine head bolts securing the cylinders to the engine block: these can fail catastrophically due to age-related corrosion, and this failure can have nothing to do with the mileage.

It is very expensive to replace a corroded exhaust heat exchanger: this has to be checked by a specialist in early 911s. As the Solex carbs used initially required frequent adjustment, these were often replaced in period with Webers or Zeniths, but original carburetors have a higher collector value. Magnesium engine blocks and gearboxes tend to leak oil. Cars sourced from the US often have the K-Jetronic Bosch fuel injection and are more expensive to fix.

Gearbox

Most early Porsche 911s are equipped with a 4-speed manual gearbox. Much fewer have a 5-speed or the Sportomatic semiautomatic transmission (the latter offered from 1967). The standard gearbox is noisy and requires a firm hand, but is quite durable. As of 1971 the gearbox was replaced with a 915-series unit, with a better shifting action.

Bodywork

At the beginning Porsche cars were not as well made as they are now, or have been since the 1980’s. Older early 911s rust practically everywhere, and most have been repaired, the question therefore is: how well?

Most of these cars rust prodigiously around the headlights, front wheelarches and all the way to the base of the B-pillar. Suspension mounting points also corrode, as do the lower parts of the A-pillars. Another critical area is the special tube to which the rear suspension is attached.

Look for deformations in the inner body structure which can indicate hidden accident repairs! Leaking rubber seals of the rear and side windows mean water ingress into the hat shelf area, which in turn causes corrosionin the rearmost parts of the chassis longerons and the engine bay.

If a car you wish to buy seems to have been restored/repaired/welded, you unconditionally need the help of a seasoned specialist. In the case of cars imported from the USA, often claimed to come from so-called “dry states”, the body repairs performed there are often of horrible quality, just cleverly disguised.

Chassis

The suspension of the early 911 was composed of longitudinal torsion bars and wishbones in the front, and torsion bars plus semi-trailing arms in the rear. The rear arms were lengthened in 1971, resulting in a lengthening of the car’s wheelbase. The car had four disc brakes, later ventilated. At the beginning it has a single-circuit braking system, replaced by a double-ccircuit system in 1968.

It is crucial that the whole suspension system be in perfect shape, correctly maintained and adjusted, with parts replaced on time. The car is quite difficult to drive as it is, and with worn-out suspension it can become impossible to handle for an inexperienced driver. Low mileage is no guarantee of chassis condition.

Interior

The interior needs to be as authentic as possible with no visible damage. Depending on where the car spent most of its life, look for water ingress traces and plastic trim cracked from excessive exposure to sunlight. Replacement parts are available, mostly from Porsche Classic, but are very expensive. Buy the best car you can find.

The Story

1963: Porsche 901 shown at the Frankfurt Motor Show
1964: launch in Paris, name changed to 911
1967: 911T introduced, Sportomatic gearbox available
1968: double-circuit brakes introduced
1969: engine enlarged to 2.2 liters
1971: engine enlarged to 2.4 liters, new Typ 915 gearbox introduced
1972: RS 2.7 launched, 1308 Touring versions built, 217 units of Sport, 10 prototypes and 55 of the RSR
1973: production stopped, 81 100 units built in total

Specifications

Porsche 901
Power 130 hp 
Top speed 205 km/h 
0-100 km/h 9.1 s

The DRIVERSHALL Verdict

If a car seems to good to be true, it is. The early 911s which have become very sought after are beloved by dark characters of the classic car world. A cosmetically beautiful car can hide a rotten body. Unless the car is perfectly documented and sourced from a known vendor, try to look for a vehicle which is a bit ugly, displaying an original patina on the body and inside the cockpit, as it is easier to detect traces of bad repairs and fake restoration work. A 911 with well-disguised corrosion and component wear will be a veritable money pit.